Tuesday, October 02, 2007

Second Update from Israel

We are doing fabulously and having a terrific trip!

So, the last update we left the north and were heading to Jerusalem. Our drive was fascinating - we drove through the West Bank, sometimes in Jewish areas, sometimes in Palestinian areas. When we first got our rental car, we asked the Budget guy at the tel aviv airport if it was safe to drive through the West Bank. His jaw dropped and he said in very Israeli fashion "ehhh, why would you want to go to the west bank?" We explained that we weren't actually visiting the west bank, but wanted to drive through it to get from Tiberias to Jerusalem.

He then opened the map and pointed to the areas of the map which Budget would not allow us to enter into with the rental car (Ramallah, Jericho, Bethlehem, etc) - because they were too dangerous. As we drove through the West Bank and made our way through the many checkpoints on the road up to Jerusalem, we were very aware of "The Fence" separating parts of the West Bank and protecting Israelis from would-be suicide bombers entering Israel from the West Bank.

The Fence was EXACTLY like the AIPAC replica of the fence at Policy Conference 2 years ago and truly is a fence - not a wall as some people refer to it. Only about 1-2% of it is a wall, the rest of it is a fence and has been extremely successful in preventing terrorists from attacking Israelis. However, the poverty in the West Bank is pretty unbelievable and the road was dotted with "camel crossings" as we made our way up the mountains to Jerusalem.

Jerusalem was terrific - I really really missed it. For those of you who don't know, I lived in Jerusalem for 6 months in college when I studied at Hebrew Univesrity. When we first arrived in Jerusalem, we went to Yad Vashem - Israel's Holocaust Museum. They opened a new building in 2005 which I hadn't seen - it was truly fantastic and very different from the DC Holocaust museum. There was a very interesting letter from a U.S. Senator to a Jewish constituent, explaining why the U.S. shouldn't get involved in WWII. I will never forget the photograph display of the first Shabbat service in a German death camp after the camp was liberated by American soldiers. The American military Jewish chaplain was leading the emaciated Holocaust survivors in their first Shabbat services in years - it was an amazing moment in history captured in the picture.

Perhaps the most compelling exhibit I have ever seen is Yad Vashem's children's memorial. The memorial displays 5 candles in a building with many many many mirrors - situated so that the flame of the candles are reflected over 1.5 million times so you are surrounded by 1.5 million flames - to represent the 1.5 million Jewish children killed in the Holocaust. Names of the victims are read as you walk through and see your own image dully displayed in the mirrors next to the millions of flames and soft Jewish music is played. Truly a breathtaking memorial - very simple and yet it says so much.

So, after a very dark and difficult afternoon at Yad Vashem, we stopped by the Knesset Building (Israeli Parliament) since we are the never ending political junkies and then headed to meet up with a bunch of my old AIPAC friends who are now living in Israel (Karen Brunwasser, Glassman, Ginsberg, & Baylene). We went to a terrific grill restaurant and enjoyed a terrific dinner of grilled lamb and chicken kebabs with 12 kinds of Israeli salads - carrot salad, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant, cabbage, beets, etc - so yummy! We spent hours telling old AIPAC stories and laughing too loudly - our waiter told us that other patrons were complaining about the noisy Americans and asked us to quiet down! :) Hah!

Brad has been very entertained that dozens of people keep thinking that I'm Israeli and stop to ask me for directions (which I am terrible at even in the states!) - it's been very funny. Apparently I look Israeli (or Jewish which is what i think). The cab cars are
interesting - they are all either Mercedes or BMWs - some people say that they are from the German government for continued reparations after the war. And before you get in the cab, you haggle with the driver over the price of the cab ride so you won't get ripped off at the end!

The next day we toured the Old City of Jerusalem with my friend Daniel Ginsberg who has tremendous knowledge of the city. A South African Jew who I worked with at AIPAC, Dan fabulous accent and stories made our tour unforgettable. We loved the story about Neil Armstrong who said that as he walked in Jerusalem along the steps of Jesus, walking on the Jerusalem stone was more meaningful to him than walking on the moon! Pretty incredible. We learned so many fascinating facts about the city - we saw the original green line separating East & West Jerusalem before 1967 and the mezuzahs on each of the gates entering the Old City which are made of shell casings from the 1967 war. Walking through the Old City – we heard dozens of languages and cultures all coming together to tour this magical city.

Israel is such a country of contradictions. 18 year old girls are either in the military for their mandated service after high school and walking aroudn with huge guns over their shoulders - or they are Orthodox and married and probably pregnant (seriously, I think that like 99% of the Orthodox women under the age of 50 are pregnant right now!). There is nothing in the middle. The Orthodox women cover their head in wigs, dress in long skirts and long sleeves (regardless of the heat) and they all have huge families of 8-10 kids. There is also a lot of controversy surrounding the exemption given to ultra-Orthodox men and women who do not have to serve in the military at all. And yet, a number of Orthodox families with a lot of kids are on government assistance even though they don't serve in the military.

As I mention the Old City of Jerusalem, I am compelled to discuss the terrible incident that occurred whil we were in Jerusalem. Friday morning in the Jewish quarter of the Old City, a Palestinian terrorist stole a gun off of an Israeli security guard in the Old City and shot 11 people (only injured them) before he was killed. We were not in that part of the city - but we had been there the day before and were planning to go again that day. It was scary to have something like that happen while we were there - but the rest of the city continued to prepare for the Shabbat which was quickly approaching. We didn't even know that the incident occurred until Canadian tourists told us about it. The Israelis were like - eh, it's nothing, but I think that's just how they cope - especially since it has been SO long since something like this has happened in Jerusalem. Security was definitely heightened in the city over the sabbath and Saturday night and we were a bit more aware, but nonetheless - we still felt quite safe and at home in Jerusalem.

So, onto perhaps a more interesting subject - the food has been quite fabulous. However, there is a new Israeli phenomenon to have pizza with corn and pizza with tuna. We tried the corn pizza which was odd, the tuna one looked gross. We also tried a tuna quiche which was...interesting. It's so different than the states b/c in Israel they have dairy restaurants or meat restaurants - most restaurants are kosher so you can't mix meat and milk within the same restaurant. I also convinced Brad that israeli olives taste different than American olives (which they do!). He attempted to try one...and remembered why he hates olives as intensely as he does. :)

We also visited the Kotel (Western Wall of the Second Temple) several times and experienced its spirituality and magic. The wall was actually busier at 10pm than at 2pm! The entrance to the Western Wall is very secure and you must go through a metal detector and have your bags searched. There is a sign on the wall informing Orthodox visitors that the rabbis have ruled that the metal detectors are ok to walk through on Shabbat. The sign also says that the rabbis believe that Jews are not permitted to enter the Dome of the Rock and informs women to dress appropriately (shoulders must be covered).

We went on a terrific tour of the tunnels of the Old City running along the entire length of the Western Wall (what we see outside is just a tiny slice of the actual Western Wall). The tunnel tour was phenomenal - we walked on original streets from the Second Temple
(about 2000 years ago) and learned how the city was built, destroyed, built, destroyed, and rebuilt. We saw the cisterns which provided water to the city and learned how they erected such a tremendous temple.

Daniel also helped us find our way through the neighborhood of Mea Shearim, the first neighborhood built outside of the Old City's walls and is perhaps one of the most Orthodox neighborhoods in the world. It truly was like stepping several hundred years back into old Polish Jewish communities. The sign at the entrance of the community required women to dress "modestly" and the walls are plastered with posters for their "community board". Some of the people speak in Yiddish because they believe Hebrew is too holy to be used on a daily basis. There have been stories of them throwing stones at Jews who drive their car through the neighborhood on Shabbat - since Orthodox do not drive cars or even use electricity on the sabbath.

In preparation for Shabbat, we visited Mahane Yehuda - better known as The Shuk - or the outdoor market which is perhaps one of my most favorite places in Israel. We first went to Marzapan - which has the MOST AMAZING chocolate rugalach I have ever had - you truly crave them. They're amazing. Yum. There was a kid in there on birthright from New Jersey who saw the crowd at the store and asked me - what's going on? What do I do here? I explained about the rugalach and he got some - and agreed with my assessment of the fabulous pastry. :) We wandered through and bought pita, hummus, babaganoush, cucumbers, nectarines, etc - all for about the total of $5 - gotta love Shuk
prices!

The shuk is truly experiencing a cultural renaissance and was more alive and vibrant than I'd ever seen it before. We were there on a Friday morning and men and women scurried about trying to gather their groceries to prepare for the Sabbath - they carried 10-15 bags in their hands as they hurried home with their 10 kids to get ready for the holiday, as they do every Friday when the country shuts down to celebrate Shabbat.

Experiencing Shabbat in Jerusalem is truly amazing and unique. The buses don't run, shops and restaurants are closed, people don't work, the country comes to a standstill - to pray, eat, sing, and spend time with family. We walked to services Friday night and then to dinner at my friend Michael's friend Nechama. As we walked through the streets, we heard Shabbat services spilling out of synagogues from practically every corner and voices rising in song through the streets. People passed on the street with the customary greeting of "Shabbat shalom" - everyone had the same purpose - to celebrate Shabbat.

Dinner was terrific and very international with Jews from the U.S., England, South Africa, and Israeli. Our host went to the shuk three times on friday to get various things! As we walked back to the hotel at midnight, the streets were filled with people walking home from shabbat dinner, singing, greeting friends, etc. It truly reminded me why I love this city so much and how wonderful it feels to be in a place that cares about Judaism so much and where I feel so much at home.

We also visited the Israel Museum and saw the Dead Sea scrolls which date back about 2000 years old. They are the oldest known written versions of the Hebrew Bible and are very similar to today's Hebrew Bible. It was very humbling to see documents preserved so well and the structure they are displayed in was built right next to the Knesset to signify the importance of this archaelogical find.

The Arab bazaar (outdoor shopping) was fun - the shopkeepers aggressively try to lure you into their stores and haggle with you over the prices - often throwing out prices to you as you leave the store for items you weren't wanting to purchase. You're never really
sure if you're getting ripped off or not, but Brad's bargaining skills have improved drastically after that experience!

After crossing through the bazaar, we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulcher where Jesus is supposed to have been crucified and buried. Unlike the western wall, it was tucked away in a corner of the old city and hard to find - another reminder that we really are in a city that caters to the Jewish interests. Brad was surprised by how built up and ornate the structure was. There was mass being sung by Catholic monks walking through the stations of the Via Delarosa.

Saturday night we headed to Ben Yehuda street to do some shopping and dinner - wow, what a contrast between Shabbat and post-Shabbat Saturday night. Unlike the calm of shabbat with empty streets and quiet stores - the city became alive and vibrant. We bought a gorgeous menorah and set of candlesticks with jewish symbols etched into the crystal. The stores offered 50% off discounts to birthright Israel groups! :)

I found my favorite frozen yogurt store that blends together whatever you want to create your own personalized frozen yogurt (mine is strawberry, peach, mango, blackberry, and cherry) and Brad tried the chocolate crepes. Yes, we had dessert before dinner...we're on
vacation. :) We watched street performers and listened to 30 Asian Christian tourists perform Christian hymns on the street. New York influences are certainly present on Ben Yehuda Street as we saw "NY Big Apple Pizza" and "NY Bagel Shop".

Sunday we visited Hebrew University which was difficult for me to see. I studied abroad there for a semester in 2000 and in 2002, the cafeteria which I had eaten in every day was bombed by a Palestinian terrorist - 9 people were killed and over 80 were wounded. There is a memorial there now, but it is still painful to see. The security to enter Hebrew U was incredible, it was the only place where they asked to see our passports and interrogated us as to why we were there. We also had the beloved Israeli "toasted cheese" which is just a big sesame bagel with cheese adn tomato smushed down and toasted in a panini press so it becomes a flat hot sandwich - delish! Hebrew U is
also in East Jerusalem, and overlooks the Arab neighborhoods - many of which are much poorer than the Jewish neighborhoods.

We then left Jerusalem and began our descent into the Dead Sea region. We only went through 1 checkpoint leaving Jerusalem, they don’t really care who leaves - just who comes in. As we descended, we passed signs telling us the "below sea level" markers - until we reached the bottom which was 416 meters below sea level - the lowest place on earth. We went to Ein Gedi which is an oasis in the desert.

We hiked through the mountains and reached the gorgeous natural springs with a freshwater waterfall in the middle of the desert. After a fabulous and refreshing swim in the water and waterfall, we hiked back down and observed ibyx (like an antelope or gazelle) and tons of gophers running throughout.

We stayed at the Ein Gedi Country Resort hotel which is a lush and green resort in the middle of the desert - truly a reflection of the ingenuity and innovativeness of Israeli technology to build a resort in the desert. The rooms were overlooking the dead sea in the mountains and a stone's throw to Jordan.

Today we woke up incredibly early (4 am) to hike Masada near the Dead Sea. For those of you who don't know the history, Masada was an ancient city built by Herod on top of a mountain/plateau overlooking the Dead Sea. It was one the last to fall to the Romans during their conquest of the country in 70 AD. As the city was falling to the Romans, the remaining Jews chose to kill themselves rather than face the harsh death at the hands of the Romans. The story of Masada is one that has inspired Jews for generations and was well worth rising early in the morning to see.

We set out on our 90 minute hike up the very steep 2 kilometer mountain just before sunrise. As we steadily made our way up the mountain we witnessed a gorgeous sunrise above the Jordanian mountains on the east bank of the Dead Sea. By the time we reached the top we were sweltering under the early morning sun and tired from our rigorous hike up. As we started to explore the ruins, we were struck by the size and sophistication of the inhabitants of Masada. The ruins included a system of aqueducts and cisterns to supply bathing and drinking water for the city, filled by buckets brought up the mountain on the backs of donkeys every day. One donkey was actually trained to walk 6 miles into the mountains to a garden where it was loaded up with fresh vegetables for the city (and we can't even train our dog to fetch a ball!)

The ruins also included a synagogue, Byzantine chapel, bathhouse, and several palaces. As we wandered around the 2000 year old ruins we were struck by both the ingenuity of Herod and the city's inhabitants as well as the sadness of their fate. It certainly was an impressive site and a sobering way to begin our day. On the way down, we met a woman who worked at Hillel in DC and told me that my friend Brianne was on top of the mountain leading a birthright group! Such a small world.

This afternoon we headed to the Ein Gedi spa, a lovely complex located on the the shores of the Dead Sea. Swimming, or floating, in the Dead Sea is an experience unlike anything else. Because of the extremely high concentration of salt in the water, it is possible to simply float in the water without treading water or exerting any effort. While it looks like beach from afar, the white ring around the edge of the water is actually compacted salt left after the water evaporated. Because the water burns if it comes in contact with your eyes or face, throughout the water there are fresh water fountains to wash yourself off in.

Given that fact this is the lowest place on earth, in the middle of a desert, it was extremely hot (over 113 degrees on our car's thermometer). After a short float in the Sea we headed up to the mud pits. Becca, not surprisingly, loved getting a mud bath and before long was covered in mud from head to toe. Brad wasn't as enthusiastic and quickly showered after trying out the mud bath. He apparently doesn't like to get dirty! :)

After "baking" in the sun to allow the mud to dry, (supposedly this is good for the skin), we showered and headed south towards Eilat, the resort down on the Red Sea where Israel, Jordan and Egypt are within a few miles of each other. The afternoon drive through the desert was beautiful, though it did feel a bit odd to be climbing up to reach sea level.

Tonight we've settle in our hotel in Eilat, preparing to go scuba diving with dolphins tomorrow and then trek across the Israel/Jordan border as we conclude the Israel portion of our trip. We will have swam in 4 bodies of water (Mediterranean, Sea of Galilee, Dead Sea, & Red Sea) and have had a tremendous visit in Israel - we are sad to leave the country but we know we will return to Israel many times in
the future.

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